So we arrived in Copacabana in the middle of the day after the fiasco that was the border. As I’ve said, not a difficult exercise, just an inanely absurd one. We all freshened up at our hostel, noticing immediately that Bolivia was likely to be the shitter of the adventure. Our toilet didn’t exactly flush as per usual and the shower was blocked with god only knows what so in the end it was likely having a knee high bath in your own filth. Most unpleasant. Anyways, there is a hill on the outskirts of the town that we decided to walk up to get a view of the town, picked up a stray dog along the way which we named Paul (what a ridonulous name for a dog). Got a super view of the town and an even better one of Lake Titikaka. Then wandered back down. Don’t be fooled by the name Copacabana, its really not as great as its namesake in Brazil. Pretty much fark all to do so for the rest of the afternoon we read and played cards and drank passable coffee at a coffee shop. The experienced our first taste of Bolivian food and service. I had just about the worst pizza ever, could have cooked a better one up my bottom, and it only took an hour and a half to come. No tip for you I said very self righteously. Next day we weren’t getting a bus till the arvo so we wandered down to the lake for a look around. Not really nice so we went to a bookstore to exchange some books then hit another coffee shop for the rest of the morning. We picked up a rather pregnant dog at the waterfront which followed us in and spent the morning sleeping at Jo’s feet. Once inside (I just read this and it is rather a rambling tale I do realise) the weather absolutely shat its pants, lightning all over the place, sounded like Anthony Corry’s arse after a bad vindaloo, and it was raining llamas and guinea pigs. Thankfully it stopped in time for us to dash to the bus, and we headed off to La Paz. Some interesting scenery on the way, and it was mindblowing getting to La Paz. You drive in from above and I must say it is the most tremendous city at first site, really something to see. Bit gobsmacked. Our hostel was right in the middle of the city and was top notch. Really liked La Paz, crazy little one way streets, markets left right and centre, people and cars doing all sorts of bizarre things and was a great experience to be there. First day we basically only had time to suss our lives out before heading to dinner, which was not memorable and which took an absolute age to arrive again. Had time to go and book our mountain bike ride down death road while we were waiting, was gone for an eon and it still took years to come once we had come back. Few of us went out for some bevvies after to wind down but called it quits early for the ride the following day. Early start for the drive to the top of the road. First part of death road is all paved road so we flew down that at a swift rate of knots, one person lost their marbles unnecessarily about the equipment, wont name names but the acted like a grade A donkey. Most of us were too busy admiring the mountain scenery and practising our no-hands-on-the-bicycle technique. Corry was dropping sack while I was busy doing 60 or 70 kmhr and flipping him the bird with both free hands. We then reached Death Road Proper. Its called that for a reason, used to be the main road into La Paz and squillions of people died on it falling off the edge in cars, bikes etc. People still drive it and still go over the edge and mountain bike riders also still cark it on occasion. No worries with our group though. Was a super ride down there, could absolutely fly despite the inherent dangers and the views were really amazing, I entreat you to check out some photos at some stage. Took a few hours getting down the road with a few breaks and allowing time for the snails at the back to arrive. Really was an epic day though, loved it. Corry was even heard to use the word ‘bonerific’ despite sitting on a bike seat for that many hours. Don’t know about that guy, seriously loco. Well deserved cerveza at the bottom of the ride then went for a buffet lunch at a jungle lodge where about 3 cubic metres of food was systematically obliterated. Unbeknownst to us, we then drove back up Death Road in the van, which was a damn site more shit-in-your-pants scary than riding down the thing, however the views were equally as stunning when appreciated for the second time. Took a while getting back up and then back to La Paz afterwards but some rather epic games of 20 questions did the job perfectly. Got a bit silly in the end and even ended up with Anthony Corry proposing Anthony Corry as a famous person when he’s probably as famous as the gum on my shoe. Definitely didn’t match up to Tina Turner, Bruce Springsteen, Jesus, King Leonidis of Sparta and Jason Gunn. Everyone was pretty knackered back in La Paz so there were a few kips before we headed out for our last night with Ollie our guide. As Darryl Eastlake would say, ‘Oh it was HUGGGGEEEEE, sensational stuff’. Pretty decent meal at a really cool wee restaurant which even played Springsteen without me having to request it. Ollie got pretty tippled on various tequilas and made an emotional speech which had Corry crying his eyes out like a baby girl. But seriously, we all got absolutely magoo’ed on cheap tipple, Bolivia is crazy cheap, like 4 NZ for a meal and beers about 1.50. Corry was sharing a rather romantic meal but unfortunately our friend Gabby chundered everywhere. And i mean everywhere. At our first bar stop. Found it most amusing. End of Corrys night unfortunately but I carried on to a few venues till around 6am. Classic night out, witnessed a bit of lesbianism and ended up doing a haka in the middle of a dance floor to convince a kiwi girl i met that i was in fact a kiwi. Solid behaviour. Great nightlife in La Paz – not that Emma Hartley will remember any of it. Only got like 3 hours sleep then had breakfast with Corry and spewmonkey, which was a lovely experience. Met up with a few of the guys from our tour and went to burger king for some papas fritas while Corry farewelled the love of his life. Didnt see the guy till the afternoon as he was most upset, however, I took the chance to have a look at the outside of San Pedro prison, which if you know nothing about then you should have a read. You can do tours of the prison, but if you are unfortunate enough to be a prisoner there then you have to buy your own cell, pay for your own food etc etc but on the upside, they manufacture cocaine there and your family can come live with you in prison and can go out daily etc. Farking crazy Bolivains aye. Very foreign concept. Took a look around some food and other markets then grabbed a late lunch with most of the crew. Really great market stalls and shops on our street so spent ages looking around, bought a baby llama wool scarf as well as the sweetest jersey you may ever get the chance to lay your eyes on. 445 Bolivianos (roughly 65 NZ) well spent, genuine llama wool. 15 minutes of solid bargaining was pretty entertaining too. Later on we met our new guide, Lupe, and some new members of our tour before heading out for an excellent Thai meal. Top quality stuff. Everyone absolutely spent from previous night so called it quits early. Next day we were farewelling some tour members so we had a long and lazy brunch before checking out San Pedro again (got offered a tour for 400 Bolivianos but apparently was another 200 to pay for the privilege of leaving so we flagged), the black markets (bought sky rockets) and witches market. Felt like we walked the whole of La Paz too. Ran into a mate from Uni on the streets which was pretty crazy too. Had time for some sandwiches (yuck) before goodbye hugs and hopping on the overnight bus to Sucre. La Paz, you’re choice.
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